I wanted to make a couple changes and stumbled into two awesome & FREE programs that can accomplish this… PCM Hammer and TunerPro.
I used both these programs on my Windows 10 machine without issue!
PCM Hammer is a program you use to read/write your PCM.
https://hackaday.io/project/170262-pcm-hammer
TunerPro is the program you use to edit your PCM file.
https://www.tunerpro.net/
The cheapest dongle that works with PCM Hammer is the OBDLink SX USB, which is $40
Apparently this dongle is quite slow — so they recommend the $60 OBDLink LX:
I used a VXDiag VCX Nano, which is a bit more expensive, at about $110 — but I already had this on the shelf anyways:
https://www.vxdiagshop.com/wholesale/vxdiag-vcx-nano-for-gm-opel.html
Below is a basic workflow — but I highly suggest you do your own research because if you screw something up… you can brick your PCM!!
ATTEMPT AT YOUR OWN RISK!!
The basic workflow is as follows:
– Plug-in/install your OBD-II to USB/Wifi device into your computer
– Open PCM Hammer and configure it to work with your device
– Connect your device to vehicle OBD-II port.
– Click “Read Properties” — and determine the “OS” of your PCM.
– Click “Tools -> Read Entire PCM” to save your current PCM configuration (.bin) file
– Search the internet with your “OS” to find the .xdf file for your .bin file
– Open TunerPro and load your .bin file with the correct .xdf
– Edit your .bin file
– Save .bin file
– Open PCM Hammer and connect to PCM
– Click “Write Calibration” — select your .bin file and follow the on-screen prompts
[08:59:39:102] OS ID: 12587603
[08:59:39:180] Calibration ID: 12587670
[08:59:39:242] Hardware ID: 12583659
[08:59:39:399] Serial Number: 1KA0CHH74107
[08:59:39:461] Broad Cast Code: YFXJ
[08:59:39:508] MEC: 0Apparently these are very nice PCMs since they are relatively universal and are drive-by-wire with IAC drivers/analog cycling A/C support.